How to Stain a Deck

We see them on poles, on lawn signs, around the back of a car; they may be advertisements for Power Washing, Deck Staining and Sealing. In case you possess little knowledge about the subject, trying to understand what is entailed in the act of staining your deck can be quite confusing. Getting estimates can be extremely frustrating as each estimator seems to have their own theories and methods associated with the job, and it’s up to you, the homeowner to decide who you think knows more about the subject and can do a better job. The simple fact of the matter is, you’ll find resources out there on wood applications etc., there is however no grand textbook that explains the correct method to keep your deck from rotting.

Most decks are constructed using two several types of wood, spruce, or pine which can be treated with Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA), known as Pressure Treated Wood. The strategy of putting wood in long cylinders and inserting CCA with 150psi, started more than a century ago when railroad crossties needed protection against rotting and termites. The first pressure preservative was creosote, an item of coal tar distillation. Today, the purpose remains the same.

Let me get rid of the myth on pressure treated wood. CCA will not protect wood against moisture. Be it rain, snow, a 30-degree day in July or a freezing day in February, the wood in your beautiful backyard deck is expanding and contracting. Improper maintenance will cause cracking, swelling and a number of stains, all causing an uneven, unsightly appearance. Whether your deck is constructed of cedar or pine it too needs protection from nature’s elements. Although CCA protects wood, this is a dangerous chemical. If you have small children who like to be on the deck, it’s very smart to protect them in case they plan to lick their fingers after crawling throughout it. After you’ve built a deck it is advisable to wait at least 2 months before you apply a sealer or stain on pressure treated wood allowing the CCA and the sugars in the wood to properly bond.

For those who have a deck that looks like it’s been sitting in a swamp for ten years, or as if someone placed a stick of dynamite in a paint can and lit the wick, don’t worry, with all the proper tools, the right products, and knowledgeable people, that deck will be very sharp. There are three different types of finishes to choose from: Applying a specific sealer will give it the moisture protection and that natural wood look; applying a semi-transparent stain will not only protect it from moisture but will even add colour to your wood, or you could finish it with a solid stain. Though similar in look, a solid stain is not paint.

Clear sealers are quite possibly the most cost efficient method in protecting patio decking from nature’s elements. Clear sealers are utilized on wood that is either new, or has previously been sealed using a clear solution. Applying it on wood with a little colour left from the old stain may seal the wood, but esthetically it will look very unpleasant. Make this happen at least every two years.

Another option, which is my personal favorite, is applying a semi-transparent stain. However, take some time choosing a colour because unless you have it removed with chemicals (which can be very costly) you are stuck with that colour tone. Unlike paint or solid stain, a semi-transparent stain will permit the old colour to show through. With a proper application, the stain should last at least 2-3 years on horizontal surfaces. This is how some complications may start. Improper application can bring about a very ugly mess, not merely on your deck but also on your house, plants, patio etc Semi-transparent stains are incredibly runny and require a large amount of patience and focus. Sometimes, keeping a straight line seems easier to do with water. If you have to have a deck with multi colours using semi-transparent stain, you desperately want an artist doing the job.

The final strategy is to apply a solid stain. Solid stains last the longest. Even though it takes away from the natural beauty, it’s the battle of esthetics vs. longevity. If the deck has been previously stained using a solid finish, or painted (let’s hope not), then removing the old finish can sometimes be near impossible and extremely costly. A good application should leave you maintenance free for at least 3-5 years. Some homeowners should you prefer a semi-transparent finish on the floor and horizontal surfaces, along with a solid finish on the pickets and vertical surfaces. This may look gorgeous. Pressure (Power) Washing and Sanding

The very first task involved is to wash the wood. Depending on how much dirt and grime is present, scrubbing a deck cleaner into the wood provides the best results. Then, wash off of the cleaner with a pressure washer that will spray at least 2500psi of water, the greater pressure the better because it are able to clean deeper into the wood. Though this looks like an easy chore, holding a rod with 3200 pounds of water per sq . inch shooting out for a day isn’t any walk in the park. To wash each board separately and a steady aim, trying never to gouge the wood or eliminate the flowers, takes skill and strength.

The wood needs no less than two days to dry out from the dousing. Then you need to sand the wood. Whether this can be done manually or with electric sanders, the wood needs to be smooth enough for your feet. Sanding will even help to open up the grains.

Applying the stain or sealer prematurely will not likely cause any permanent damage, however, if you find water in the wood it is going to prevent the solution from soaking into the wood like a wet sponge, and maximum protection will never be achieved. This includes not applying your stain or sealer with a rainy day. The finish will need time to dry, so check the weather channel.

Clear Sealers

You’ll find three methods to sealing a deck with a clear sealer. One solution is to spray the sealer on, another is to roll it on. This works, however you will need to do this once a year since the sealer is mostly sitting on the woods surface. Utilizing a brush to apply the sealer gives maximum results. This can be a best way to push the sealer far in to the wood. Doing it with a brush takes more hours and is more physically demanding, that make the cost go up, but the results are worth it.

Semi-Transparent Stains

Semi-transparent stains are strictly supposed to penetrate into the wood. By using a brush is imperative with this type of application. Rolling or spraying the stain to save lots of time is acceptable, however it should be followed by a brush to push the stain in along with a rag to wipe off any excess stain if employing an oil based stain. Simply rolling or spraying it does not give you a nice finish. The stain won’t permeate the wood and you’ll want to do it the following year.

Staining with semi-transparent stains could be very an art. In order to achieve maximum protection you have to soak the wood with stain, travelling along doing 2-3 boards at a time. Stopping half way down a board will leave a line. As soon as the stain has sat for 5-10 minutes, the excess stain (the shiny stuff) needs to be wiped off with a rag if it hasn’t sunk in yet, it won’t. Eventually, it’s going to wash away with the rain, but in the meantime, it will not look very professional. It’s essential not to apply stain in direct sunlight or temperatures exceeding 30 degrees Celsius as the stain will dry before it sinks to the wood and it will peel away right away. Depending on the porosity of the wood, to accomplish a rich colour you may require a second coat within Twenty minutes of applying the first coat. Allowing the initial coat to dry can provide a seal, repelling any stain from penetrating into the wood. An experienced person can multi task and do several boards at a time.

Solid Stain

As with all the other methods, an excellent pressure wash is needed. Once dried, when there is an existing solid finish, it takes a very good sanding job, thinning out your stain on the surface as best as possible. For this application it is imperative to do all of the necessary prep work, and not to acquire the cheap stuff. A gallon of the good solid stain should cost approximately $50. I recommend using latex solid stains over oil as the oil finish will become hard and won’t be capable of adapt to the weather changes, producing cracking and chipping. A primer coat is necessary, along with two finish coats. Some stains contain an oil primer, for grip, plus a latex finish on the surface for flexibility. These are generally ideal as you eliminate the initial primer coat. This should be the only time where utilizing a roller without brushing against each other is allowed. As long as it provides a good sanding, your deck should turn out fine.

Paint

Though very similar in appearance, a solid stain’s components are quite different than paint. Painting a deck will lead to disaster once it starts to peal and flake. Exterior paint is not designed for deck floors where water and snow settle, along with holding up to the pressure of men and women walking on it. This is very important to know.

My advice to homeowners is to buy the job that suits you and hire the correct people. Properly maintaining your deck doesn’t mean that you need thousands of dollars. Whether you’re spending a number of hundreds bucks a year to safeguard your deck, or fifteen $ 100 every 3-4 years to have a work of art in your backyard, make sure you get it done right.

Find the best staining products, tools at Best Deck Staining Tutorials. , and save yourself hours of work with Wood Deck Products.

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How to Stain a Deck

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